East Tennessee Bikers

Motorcycle Education => How To's => Topic started by: PAULRIDES on October 27, 2018, 09:10:34 am

Title: Rear Tire Change and Brake Pads Change on Burgman 400 (what not to do)
Post by: PAULRIDES on October 27, 2018, 09:10:34 am
Things went smooth as far as the Rear Tire Change (needed, see first picture).

Couple more pictures show pretty easy to get to the wheel off condition on this scooter. No plastic removal required, book says to, but don't need to - just need a little dexterity to get to the clamp on the exhaust pipe to get the muffler off.

Take Muffler off (clamp, and three bolts), that Caliper Off (2 bolts and hope it slips off the Disc cause you can't compress the Parking Brake Piston until you get the caliper off, it screws in), then take the swing arm off (two bolts and axle nut - it's 85 Foot Lbs). Then wheel comes off.  (See pictures 2 and 3).

What Not To DO   :-\

Long story but My Problem I think it is the caliper is slightly bent from the time I had to use a crow bar (big one) to pry it off the disc. The disc had an edge because of wear on the disc and you can't compress the Parking Brake piston to get it over that disc edge. There is a solution had I thought about, grind down the edge along a few inches along the circumference before taking the caliper off to allow the caliper pads to slip off. (I did fix that later and since have replaced the disc).   

Pads were say 60% or 75% worn and I decided to replace them while I had the caliper off (save old ones, probably put them back on when these are worn down - I wear them down to near the base).

Pad removal and install new ones is easy enough (two allen head screws go thru two holes in each pad to hold them in place). Of course you have to push one piston in (hand brake piston that is hydraulic controlled). The a Parking Brake Piston that is mechanically controlled and has to be screwed back in. Anyway, all that went pretty good.

I installed the caliper and tightened the bolts. Wheel was restricted as if the brakes were on (it would turn, but not very easily). I later found the problem (the bent caliper I think).

In the meantime I thought the springs in the caliper, or the the pads were not sliding easily on the two screws, or WHAT? I was frustrated. So, I did some modifications on the pads (files some edges and drilled a slightly larger hole where the screws go thru the pads - they are a bot snug fit). Also, messed with the springs (anti-rattle springs I think) in the caliper to make sure they were  not interfering with the pads. 

I think most of that was for nothing as later found the problem and I attribute it to the caliper being slightly bent. I finally realized the Inside Pad (closest to the scooter center and not at the piston) was the one biding and binding increased as I tightened the caliper mounting bolts.

Solution -- I removed a spacer behind the pad (there are two, one is metal and it I don't know what material) -- that helped some and I also left the mounting bolts just snug VS tongued down (with a lot of Blue Locktite). I will have to keep an eye on those for awhile to make sure they are not backing out. 

WHAT NOT TO DO - I injured my right hand (it's a bit swollen and sore to close my grip). Not having a bench vice, I used vice grip to hold the pads with my left hand as I was trying to drill a slightly larger hole for the screws to go thru with my right hand. Trying to drill at slow speed and push gently, that works.

However, the trigger on the drill is sensitive and I hit it too hard and the bit locked up and jerked the drill handle nearly out of my hand. It hurt then, but was able to finish purring things together. Hand became more sore and some swollen last night and over night. Hand is usable and I don't think anything is broken.

I need to change the front tire also, think I better wait on that.