Author Topic: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread  (Read 12338 times)

Offline Curtie223

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #30 on: September 14, 2011, 04:50:56 pm »
That is one thing about anything. Maintenance!!!!!! if you take care of things they will take care of you. I have learned that along time ago. 

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Offline prince812

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #31 on: September 14, 2011, 09:54:43 pm »
I had a maxima that was passed down through the family that had over 400 k n still ran great. Maintenance is everything with any mechanical thing lol  :21
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Offline Deuce

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #32 on: August 19, 2012, 09:09:19 am »
I have seen cars with 100k + miles that were changed to synthetic start leaking like a B. Would a bike with 26k have similar problems?
2006 VTX1300C 205/70/15 Hydroedge rear tire, Leatherlyke Bags, Batwing, Cobra floor boards, Vance & Hines pipes, LEDGlow, Pair Mod, Kuryakin Hypercharger Pro, Mustang seat, Cobra passing lights, Cobra Case Gaurds, 3" Fork extensions, 1800C Shocks, Cobra Tach, Custom Risers, Custom Kickstand, and a  WOLO Badboy Horn.

Offline Curtie223

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #33 on: August 19, 2012, 10:21:23 am »
Generally I think the reason they leak after puttung synthetic in is because of seal issues that were covered up by conventional oil gunk that kept them from leaking. Then the synthetic oil cleaned that away causing the bad seal to leak? Or so I was told..

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Offline emd513

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #34 on: August 19, 2012, 10:59:03 am »
I'm a mobile one user all the way. Everything I have has got it in it. Nothing better imo
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Offline 2wheeltech

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Re: Re: Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #35 on: August 19, 2012, 11:11:40 am »
Generally I think the reason they leak after puttung synthetic in is because of seal issues that were covered up by conventional oil gunk that kept them from leaking. Then the synthetic oil cleaned that away causing the bad seal to leak? Or so I was told..

+ 1... And synthetic is smaller on a molecular level in comparison to conventional oil.. Not all synthetics leak.. Motul 7100 made my old Gsxr leave puddles... leaking from of all places.... The crankcase split.. I ran Yamalube synthetic 15w50... Its one if the cheaper.. And love the thicker oil. Quieter and cooler.. Lil to no leaking.. Bike had 25k on it when I traded it.

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Offline emd513

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #36 on: August 19, 2012, 01:06:07 pm »
Yeah. I like when they come into autozone and say ( you sold me junk oil that made my car leak. ) right maybe you should have sold your junk car. :34
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Offline Deuce

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #37 on: September 08, 2012, 08:20:40 pm »
So I switched the X over to full synthetic in the engine/trans (RotellaT6) and the final drive (AutoZone 75w90). I also put on a taller filter too. I think it likes it so far. The engine seems quieter and it shifts a little crisper too. As long as it doesn't turn into a sprinkler it should be good.
2006 VTX1300C 205/70/15 Hydroedge rear tire, Leatherlyke Bags, Batwing, Cobra floor boards, Vance & Hines pipes, LEDGlow, Pair Mod, Kuryakin Hypercharger Pro, Mustang seat, Cobra passing lights, Cobra Case Gaurds, 3" Fork extensions, 1800C Shocks, Cobra Tach, Custom Risers, Custom Kickstand, and a  WOLO Badboy Horn.

Offline Spike240SX

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #38 on: September 08, 2012, 09:46:01 pm »
AMSOIL!

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Offline PAULRIDES

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #39 on: September 09, 2012, 06:10:47 am »
Lately (couple years or more), settled on Valvoline or Castrol MC Oil - Most Laely Valvoline from Walmart as they don't have Castrol -- and FRAM filters from the same place. Change 4000 +/-.  $6 somehting a quart.

71000 on a VLX 600 (used Honda Oil in it until I got smart).
87000 on KAWA 800 Cruiser (mostly Castrol or Valvoline in it)
56000 on Burgman 650 Scooter (mostly Valvoline in it)
26000 on NINJA 500 (mostly Valvoline in it)

Might blow up tomorrow, who knows.

 

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Offline Deuce

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #40 on: September 09, 2012, 07:38:16 am »
I run valvoline in everything. Up until yesterday this included the X. But, on the VTXOA site there are countless threads on the performance of the Rotella T6. Some even went so far as to scan and share oil analysis results. So I figured it's $21 a gallon I'd give it a shot. If I stick with it I'll have 8 quarts of Valvoline mc oil to sell  :groan. As for fram...I don't use fram on anything...ever.
2006 VTX1300C 205/70/15 Hydroedge rear tire, Leatherlyke Bags, Batwing, Cobra floor boards, Vance & Hines pipes, LEDGlow, Pair Mod, Kuryakin Hypercharger Pro, Mustang seat, Cobra passing lights, Cobra Case Gaurds, 3" Fork extensions, 1800C Shocks, Cobra Tach, Custom Risers, Custom Kickstand, and a  WOLO Badboy Horn.

Offline IanC

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #41 on: September 09, 2012, 09:12:54 am »
Second that on the Fram filters. Wouldn't run one on my lawnmower.
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Offline PAULRIDES

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #42 on: September 09, 2012, 10:08:07 pm »
Also FRAM on everything I have owned that I did my own (lots of stuff over 50 plus years) oil changes on. 

No problems. However, usually trade in 75000 to 100000 mile range.
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline Deuce

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #43 on: September 10, 2012, 02:56:17 am »
I've seen fram blow the seam and ruin engines. They can run commercials about testing them all they want. I won't use there stuff.
2006 VTX1300C 205/70/15 Hydroedge rear tire, Leatherlyke Bags, Batwing, Cobra floor boards, Vance & Hines pipes, LEDGlow, Pair Mod, Kuryakin Hypercharger Pro, Mustang seat, Cobra passing lights, Cobra Case Gaurds, 3" Fork extensions, 1800C Shocks, Cobra Tach, Custom Risers, Custom Kickstand, and a  WOLO Badboy Horn.

Offline 2wheeltech

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #44 on: September 10, 2012, 06:56:40 am »
Paul... "$6 something a quart... " why not use an OEM oil when it too is "6 something"???

Everyone who uses fram or aftermarket filters... I want you to come see me with your cheap filter next time u do an oil change.. Let me show u what the inside of an oe filter looks like compared to your aftermarket.. Idk why anyone would use anything else when looking at the differences..

I mean it could just be the difference in a $1k motor overhaul or even a $300 clutch job.. U can't possibly save enough money on oil and filters throughout they ownership of your machine to pay for those repairs???

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Offline Curtie223

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #45 on: September 10, 2012, 07:54:07 am »
Larry, personally love rotella. Use it in my trucks, bikes, and everyhing else. Great stuff.

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Offline emd513

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #46 on: September 10, 2012, 10:44:09 am »
I want touch anything less than a mobile filter. And it runs 15+ but usually keep a k&n on my bike.

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Offline PAULRIDES

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #47 on: September 10, 2012, 03:49:40 pm »
Paul... "$6 something a quart... " why not use an OEM oil when it too is "6 something"???

Have to check prices again -- seems like $6 VS $9. I don't know.

I got started using Valvoline (prefer Castorl for no real reason,jsut ahve used Castrol for years in car) and Fram some time ago on MC. Just stayed with it. 
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Offline midknight

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #48 on: September 10, 2012, 08:39:52 pm »
I've seen a lot of hate on fram filters....I've used fram filters more than any other and never had a problem.  ??? Different strokes I guess... did see the threads come out of an stp filter and ruin an engine, yup, Autozone paid for the rebuild!

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Offline 2wheeltech

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #49 on: September 10, 2012, 09:27:15 pm »
All brands of OEM dino oil are 6.99 MSRP and by the gallon its 6.25.. Castrol and Valvoline dino oil, from what I've seen at the auto conglomerates, is 5.99

Idk I don't care where anyone gets thier supplies or what brands they use.. Its thier engine if it doesn't work...

Oil and tire choices have been a long time heated debate in the M/C community.. Not gonna change..

Here is the problem with any oil filter that uses a paper element type filter.. And there are alot even that come stock.. But most don't use paper in water cooled engines.. The problem is, if water enters the oil... The water makes the paper fall apart and clog major oil passages. Fram and hiflofiltro use paper in their spin on filters.. Where Honda, Yamaha, some k&n and the likes, use a caged fiber material.

Here's my feelings about rotella... Oil is built around certain characteristics.. Thermal properties, shear properties, lubrication/anti wear additives and anti foaming additives.. An oil, designed for a diesel engine that redlines at 4000 rpm, in an engine that redlines at 12-15k?  Just doesn't make sense. The foaming of a crank at 4k compared to 15k is a whole lot more splashing going on. The biggest problem with running the wrong oil is the possibility if the oil containing molybdenum which is a friction modifier and makes things slick.. Now the last thing u want is a wet clutch being slick..

I'm not trying to start a forum fire.. Just stating why I use what I use and recommend.

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Offline Deuce

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #50 on: September 11, 2012, 03:02:04 am »
I made sure about the friction modifiers. And, as for the rpm my vtx doesn't go above 4000....not on purpose anyway. :34
2006 VTX1300C 205/70/15 Hydroedge rear tire, Leatherlyke Bags, Batwing, Cobra floor boards, Vance & Hines pipes, LEDGlow, Pair Mod, Kuryakin Hypercharger Pro, Mustang seat, Cobra passing lights, Cobra Case Gaurds, 3" Fork extensions, 1800C Shocks, Cobra Tach, Custom Risers, Custom Kickstand, and a  WOLO Badboy Horn.

Offline Curtie223

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #51 on: September 11, 2012, 05:35:43 am »
No friction modifier in rotella. Good ole zink. Which is great for the clutch. Alot of race bikes use rotella t. ;)

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Offline tnzeder

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #52 on: September 11, 2012, 08:23:54 am »
Very well said

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Offline 2wheeltech

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Re: Re: Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #53 on: September 11, 2012, 10:45:35 am »
No friction modifier in rotella. Good ole zink. Which is great for the clutch. Alot of race bikes use rotella t. ;)

I have heard this about rotella. Good oil. Ran it in my duramax.. But nothing else period.  I don't know of independent analysis of rotella stating that.. Never looked either.. Alot of people claim that.. U also have oil companies claiming things that have been found in independent studies to not be true.

Amsoil for instance, thier propiganda has studies putting thier oil up against all the major M/C oil companies and shows thier oil to have the best shear rating and wear rating.. The thing is, Motorcyclist mag had an independent testing center test all the major oils.. They found that amsoil placed 5th in the the same studies and tests behind- (in order 1st-4th) golden spectro, maxima, motul, belray... Im sure they make good oil.. But why must they lie about it in thier tests?

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Offline jeff5150

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #54 on: September 13, 2012, 05:15:26 pm »
mobile1 10/30 or 40 high mileage. does not have the friction modifyers. ive used it in every bike i have owned, and most every bike ive done an oil change for. 26.00 for 5 quarts(makes it 5.20 a quart)at walmart. i usually do a change roughly 1500-2000 miles with a filter change every other oil change.
81 gl1100....

Offline emd513

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #55 on: September 14, 2012, 09:28:34 am »
I use the mobile one 10w/40 racing 4t 9.99 a qt. Cost me 55.00 bucks every oil change done at 2500-3000 with k&n filter. But if I can find better for cheaper I would. I use mobile in all vehicles. For Tue sheer fact that every car I have pulled the cover off or oil pan that ran that stuff still looks like new from the factory even ones with over 200,000 miles

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Offline jeff5150

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #56 on: September 14, 2012, 10:51:48 am »
if you wanna see what regular mobile1 full synthetic high mileage is like in a motorcycle, just ask jared(thirdgenlxi) over 200,00 miles on his cbr 600f4i. he rides the hound out of this bike. several trackdays, and still on the stock clutch at last i heard. would have still been the complete stock motor if not for a freak lowside in an intersection on his way to work that bent the crank snout.. he picked up a used motor out of atlanta i believe and when he tore both motors apart his was in much better shape. he used most of the parts from his bike on the "newer" motor, including the stock clutch. you could still see the cross hatching in his cylinders.
here are a few pics of what at the time was 177,000 miles on a completely stock motor that had mobile1 10/40 high mileage ran in it.
uncleaned, just as it looked when disassymbled...

not bad for 177k....

even the crank bearings looked perfect

he even reused his 177k rings from the pistons....

his factory rod bearings....

factory shift drum...

177k shift forks...

original 177k clutch


quote from jared himself....
Well.... I am indeed a diesel mechanic, but I don't use the Rotella on a regular basis. It's great oil, but I've always been a Mobil 1 kinda guy. When the bike was new I broke it in using the regular Honda dino oil that it came with, then at 5000 miles switched it to Mobil 1 full syn, 15w-40 at the time, but now 10w-40 (it wasn't available in that weight way back when) and have been using it ever since, changed like clockwork every 5000 miles. Yes, car oil.... the stuff everybody says "you can't use cuz it'll make your engine blow up". It's non energy conserving so my clutch is happy (obviously... it's original), and these pictures are pretty good evidence that it also does a pretty damn good job and keeping everything clean and lubed too! That's half the reason I posted all these pics up, just to shut a few people up about the oil and mileage thing, hahahah. But for now, since I kinda had to go through the whole 'break in' thing again, I didn't want to use the synthetic, plus I knew I'd be changing it again very shortly afterwards and didn't want to spend alot either. I put the Rotella in cuz it's cheap but still a real good oil, ran it for 600 miles and by that point it was getting a little funky (washing out all the assembly lube I used, which was black), so I changed it out then, and put more Rotella back in. Got about 700 miles on this oil now and it's still clean as can be, so I'll run it for another 1500 miles and do my regular oil change at 180k like I would have done anyways, and go back to the Mobil 1 then
81 gl1100....

Offline LukeNukeEm

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #57 on: September 14, 2012, 10:54:18 am »
I run nothing but rotella t5 or t6 in my bikes, I can tell in smoother shifting after I change it.  Run Mobile 1 full syn in the car.

Offline emd513

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Re: Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #58 on: September 14, 2012, 11:17:42 am »
Did not knowvu could run the regular mobile one. That will be a lot cheaper

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Offline jeff5150

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Re: The Official "What Oil Should I Use" thread
« Reply #59 on: September 14, 2012, 11:44:28 am »
it has to be the high mileage.... on the back of the bottle, lower left corner, the circle with the ratings and such in it CANNOT have energy conserving, resource concerving, etc.. in the lower portion of the circle. it has to be blank.
81 gl1100....