Author Topic: Lowering Kit for 2014 CB500X - First Lowering Kit for Me (Update-Installed)  (Read 1505 times)

Offline PAULRIDES

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Hopefully, I can Do It as have had considerable Feedback from folks on CB500X Forum and folks on my Rider's E Mail List. Not sure why I call it a riders E Mail list anymore as not many riders with me - call it information list about my rides.  :happypep

My main concern has been --- knowing when the tension is off the suspension so can remove the bolts and the  part?

Part MFG gives a procedure using jack and suggests to lift rear end up with a hoist or by friends to relieve tension.

I hope to just put it on the Center Stand and maybe a board under the wheel to adjust for weight of Swing Arm and Wheel.

I have had inputs from some folks that SHOULD WORK and offers to help from Eric, Mike, Marc. Part should come in today as released from Sevierville for delivery this AM (1-29-2016). 

POST the original information I started with on the CB500X Forum BELOW

Ordered 1 1/4 inch Lowering Kit (rear) last evening. $50 + $12.40 shipping.

Install does not look too bad. I get impression if you have bike on center stand, you can just remove the bolts. Don't need to use the jack.

Anybody ever done one????? Comments appreciated.

https://www.motowerk.com/uploads/Hon...structions.pdf

I did not order the $25 kickstand shortening kit - either live with it as is or cut it and get a welder to weld end back on. Cheap welder like friends TerrE or Gary. :-)

I think I can still use center stand which I use mostly at home anyway. I tested by putting a 2 x 6 (which are only 1 1/4 inch thick) under the stand and was able to raise it up (not as easy, but got it).

Also, tested the side stand by putting (2 by 6 ---- 1 1/4 thick) under it. A bit upright, will have to definitely watch to have a LEVEL Ground or a SLOPE Off to the LEFT Ground Side of the bike for the side stand.

Or worst case cut it and weld end foot back on.

I am not sure I will drop the triple tree - see how it feels after installing the rear lowering.

 
« Last Edit: January 30, 2016, 08:32:51 am by PAULRIDES »
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline IanC

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Re: Lowering Kit for 2014 CB500X - First Lowering Kit for Me
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2016, 08:52:59 pm »
Looking forward to the progress.

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1978 Suzuki GS1000EC - Completely custom.
2012 Triumph Daytona 675R

Offline PAULRIDES

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Re: Lowering Kit for 2014 CB500X - First Lowering Kit for Me
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2016, 11:32:17 pm »
Installed kt FRI Evening- First one for me. With inputs from various folks and a bit of luck it came off rel easy. :happypep

Full report with pictures coming here - all ready sent out an E Mail which I think you are on my E Mail List.

A recent concern is -- wonder if I changed pre-load or anything else. Need to find out about that (I don't have a clue as to what that involves other than some reading I did on pre-load and did not understand that read very well).

I think it has to do with seat height unloaded and loaded - in other words you should not get onto the springs until loaded. 
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline skeeter

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Re: Lowering Kit for 2014 CB500X - First Lowering Kit for Me
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2016, 04:22:07 am »
glad the deal went good . a lot don't .looks to me like an inch & 1/4 ain't gonna be a problem loaded or not . ride that thing & you will know . hope you are feeling better,  :21
if you are gonna go,go old school.

Offline PAULRIDES

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Re: Lowering Kit for 2014 CB500X - First Lowering Kit for Me
« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2016, 08:23:39 am »
First four Pictures show final results.
 
So far, I am happy. The lean angle without shortening the side stand is A OK and it comes up on the Center Stand with reasonable effort.  That said, I have not had a test ride.
 
I am Flat Footed now with street shoes on and will be better yet with thicker sole riding wear (boots). For Info -- I have about a 27 or maybe 28 inch inseam (28 inch jeans are a bit long on me).
 
I have not lowered the front end and probably will not. It is an option and it would make it a bit lower.  WAIT & SEE on that. I do not expect any issues on handling (a little bit lower might be nice).   
 
View is Left Side (Chain Side) after new plates installed. Those are the bolts that go thru the plate.

View is Right Side (Muffler Side) after installation. Those are the nuts on the bolts.
The Kit Procedure said tighten the nuts tight or use torque wrench at 22 Ft Lbs. I just tightened (they were not real hard to break loose initially). The nut has a lock type washer that holds it. I did not think My torque wrench would fit under there. I found out it did, so I checked the nuts. I had a good deal tighter than than 22 Ft Lbs and left them that way.

Pictures shows the amount of lowering by the fact the wheel is now raised above the board (it is a 1 1/4 inch kit).  The picture shows the bike on the center stand and wheel raised the length of the socket above that board after kit installation. The wheel was on the board (barely touching) before installation. So, it will be that much lower when I take it off the Center Stand.
I am glad I did not order the side stand shortening kit (another $25). Lean angle is A OK after kit install. This bike had a bit too much lean angle before putting this kit on anyway. 
 
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline PAULRIDES

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Re: Lowering Kit for 2014 CB500X - First Lowering Kit for Me
« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2016, 08:31:56 am »
The Way I Did It --- Not that I am an expert (my first time) and it is not rocket science.

All went well with the solicited advice I had received before hand and a little luck and a little bit of common sense (a little bit is about all I have). Anyway, maybe this will help someone else planing to install a lowering kit.  O)

TOOLS & SETUP that I used.  Pictures
Tools -- I only needed or used a 14MM Box End (Bolt Side) and 17MM Socket (Nut Side), and long bar and ratchets as needed. Nuts screw off by hand once you get them started. 
Setup - I put the bike on the center stand with the center stand on a 1 1/4 thick board (gives more room to work). Plus, I really lucked out as when I I put two boards (1 1/4 each) under the rear wheel, it was a snug fit and there was no resistance to removing the bolts and old plates.
Safety Thing -- I tied the Front Brake Lever "ON" to make sure bike did not roll off center stand as I worked on the lowering kit.

Thought about taking Muffler off for more room - Glad I did not as worked OK with out doing that. I used 14MM Box End wrench on chain side to hold the bolt (Box End stays on better) and 17 MM Socket on  the Nut to break them loose (not a lot of torque required).

Nuts removed from the right side and bolts pushed back a bit. Like I said, lucked out as no tension on the bolts with the two boards under the rear wheel and Center Stand on a board. 

Removed Right Side (Muffler Side) plate.

Compared old Right Side Plate to the new Right Side Plate. PANIC -- the dang holes don't line up.  :groan Dumb Me - no problem as I found out later when installing new plates.
 ;D

Removing Left Side (Chain Side) old plates. Bolts pull out from this side (finger pull if no tension on them). You can see one partially out.  Sorry Blurred this one a bit and third bolt is behind the chain. .

This bottom link (swings) is attached to the lower hole in the plate and drops down (swings where you need it to be, but you have to raise and lower the rear wheel when installing the new plate. 

Swings where you need to to be ---- You will need a helping hand or as I did use a leg under the board under the wheel to move the wheel and swing arm UP & DOWN to make the holes line up with the new plate. (see Picture of Knee under the board)
 
I first installed the front upper bolt and tehn moved the wheel up and down to align the back upper bolt. I also pushed the sleev out of there (looks like some bearing up in there. I was able to get the sleeve back in. Be careful to hold the back side of the sleave when putting the bolt in.
 
Then you move the wheel up and down until the swing arm lines up with the lower bolt hole on the plate. Pretty easy actually. Again, a helper might make it easier. but I was able to do it using my knee under the board as picture shows.

See- Not lined up yet. Raise and lower rear wheel and it lines up.

Two of my bolts had corrosion. I brushed them and used a bit of anti seize before reinstalling. 

 
 
 
 
« Last Edit: January 30, 2016, 08:35:35 am by PAULRIDES »
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline IanC

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Looks good Paul.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2016, 10:16:24 am by IanC »
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC - Completely custom.
2012 Triumph Daytona 675R

Offline PAULRIDES

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Made about 150 mile ride THU with about 11 gravel (good packed gravel for most of Hurricane Gap except for a few soft areas going to Rich Mtn turnoff). Rich Mtn portion is a bit more rough in some spots and we finally turned back at a small wash out before reaching the fire tower. Would normally cross that washout, but the best place to cross was a bit soft, it was getting late (near 4PM and we were couple hours from home), and expected near 25F during the night on the MTN. I would not want to get involved in a get off and be stranded there. GROAN

Anyway --- performance opinion after the 1 1/4 inch lowering kit and dropping the tree 3/4 inch.

Street riding --- No problem. Might like better with the tree at original VS lowered. Kind of wish I would have left it OEM longer. May try it back there.

Gravel --- Doubt handling has anything to do with lowering, but I noticed when I get into some loose gravel or soft areas this bike gets a bit Squirrely (for lack of better word)in the front end. Not an alarming situation and I had that on another ride sometime ago on some loose stuff before any lowering.

Thoughts about that:
I am not an expert dirt rider and I realize if is not a dirt bike. Also, I still have the Bridgstone street tire on the front (not worn out yet). I am anxious to put the SHINKO 80% street and 20% Off Road on the front, I have changed the REAR tire all ready (SHINKO 80% / 20%).

Maybe leaving the rear lowered and not lowering the front would make the front more stable under these conditions. However, I did not notice any appreciable change for the short street ride with lowering kit and front not lowered.
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)