Author Topic: Scooter Wobble has become EXTREME -- Looking for Ideas & Hoping it is Tire  (Read 633 times)

Offline PAULRIDES

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Story --- most always had some tendency to wobble at slow speed and turn loose of bars. Varied from slight to extreme. Never really considered it that much of a problem (think I can say it seemed to vary with change of tires).

ANYWAY Story has changed.  Lately (say last month or so), I have had to pump front tire every time I ride it (loose 10 PSI in a day and down to zero on gauge in a few days).

Otherwise OK and I have been riding it.

Noticed last TUE on ride to Elizabethton,TN - Spruce Pine,NC  (326 miles RT) that there seemed to be more wobble.
Noticed past Saturday when I ran a couple errands -- wobble was extreme coming out of driveway, up to the street, and on unless I was up around 50MPH or so.

I am talking wobble and shake front end you can feel. Turn lose of steering for an instant and it is EXTREME. Not sure that it would not dump you if you let it go, better be ready to grab it.

I AM HOPING that the tire has gone bad (to tell he truth this one has worn more even than others ( no scalloping, just sides wore down more than center (see that often).

Not riding until I get another one mounted (ordered today). Well, maybe ride to gym or an errand. Air it up to 26 or so before I leave. That is what I have been doing for last month or so.

Anyone have any Real Knowledge about such a change. Hopefully, their experience has been the tire cause I don't know what would else would cause such a change, but can't imagine it would be good. 
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline Luvmystar

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My thought is for sure change the tire and while you have the front off the ground check the head bearings for looseness.I can't really tell you where to go from there but thats where I would start.
Marc

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Offline PAULRIDES

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Thanks Marc.

Had similar advcie from a couple folks. Couple thingnk belt in tire czame loose (leak and wobble).

Head bearing check god idea also. I had that in mind -- not real sure I will recognize if OK or Bad.

Expect to raise front and shake from bottom to see if I feel play. Think someplace read one time about setting steering off (turn handle bars) and see how freely it falls or stays where you set the bars (that is front wheel off ground of course).

I also want to remove wheel / tire and put it in a Garden Wheel Barrel with later to cover part of the tire and wheel. Would like to see where the leak is for my satisfaction, a soapy solution applied with a sponge did not reveal anything on tire, rim, or valve stem.

Take a look at Wheel Bearings. Don't suspect anything as I do not  hear any noise (but have not raised the front and spun the wheel).
 
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Offline skeeter

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no steering damper ,i guess? jack the fork up & flip the handle bars . but start with the tire . if the forks just bonce back & forth , try to torgue the center bolt on the triple tree,look up the specks'.
if you are gonna go,go old school.

Offline PAULRIDES

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Thanks skeeter. Part of the plan is check steering (but I doubt it is cause). By the way -- No Damper.

I get the impression wobble is a pretty common thing from looking up information. Most of it is minor and just irritating. (like my NINJA 500 and the Burgman Scooter have been - minor until this present Burgman issue).

Here is some basic ideas and some wild ideas I ran into searching on the BurgmanUSA web site (FORUM).



COMMENTS:
Post by Ray on Burgman Forum. This one was a guy had it develop only when he attaches his box on back (box weighs a whole 7 pounds). It was minor, but just an issue.
 
Having had this problem on most motorcycle AND scooters, I'll offer this theory.

It begins with rear tire wear. As the tire tread flattens it wears irregularly and results in a slightly "wavering" tread contact with the road surface. Usually well worn tires make the wobble worse and I think it's related to the tire contact patch moving slightly from side to side.

Secondly I think it's related to leverage. The distance from the front axle to the steering head pivot point is much shorter than the distance from the rear axle to the steering head pivot point. Any tread variations result in a syndrome I'll call "The tail wagging the dog" for lack of a better term. The tread irregularity causes this wobble or shake and it appears to be related to whether you're accelerating or slowing, with slowing having the greatest effect as the rear wheel "drags" speed down.

Add a top box and the center of gravity changes rearward making the problem more pronounced and usually altering the speed at which it occurs. A little more weight way back has a lot more effect that it would seem to, mostly due to geometry.

New tires, especially on the rear, seem to mitigate the wobble for a while until wear occurs, then it starts all over again.

Experimenting with tire pressures, usually a bit more, sometimes helps, as does making sure steering head bearings are correctly adjusted. Good wheel bearings are important too, but don't usually affect a cure even after new ones are fitted.

A steering damper, as fitted to sport bikes, usually helps, but are not easily installed on all bikes or scooters.

Ideally if one can identify the problem, one can minimize it by experimenting with tire pressure and keeping the load in the rear box as light as possible. Tire brands probably make some difference, but I don't know how to prove that. On my 1983 Gold Wing I found Dunlop touring tires were better than Metzeler ME880s in that respect, as an example. On other bikes it didn't make much difference. With rear saddlebags and rear trunks, virtually every bike I've owned (over 47) exhibited this phenomenon with Gold Wings being particularly susceptible. Tapered roller steering head bearings helped a bit in most cases, but were NOT a panacea. They are available for the Burgman scooters if you're so inclined to use them.

Sorry about not offering a cure, but I doubt it's possible in every case. Try a bit higher front tire pressure as a starting point and even consider adding some weight to the front wheel by placing luggage on the transmission hump. One sure cure is to NEVER ride no handed, or at least be aware of which speeds and acceleration/deceleration speeds produce the worst wobble and be wary when riding at those speeds.

If you're looking to see the effect of the tail wagging the dog syndrome, try this. On the center stand, go to the back of the scooter and move the scooter sideways, noting the handlebar angular motion. It will be exaggerated greatly, at least in degrees of front wheel movement -- this should at least demonstrate my theory.

Ray in Minneapolis and still sitting out winter!


Post by Buffalo on Burgman Forum
Have you checked the steering head bearings. I've found that is normaly the problem when a wobble shows up that wasn't there before. Bad or loose steering head bearings can also lead to cupped tires.

Raise the front of the bike off the ground and support it on a sturdy block. Go around in front of the bike and grasp the forks and push and pull on them to see if you can detect any looseness in the steering head. If that seems OK go around and try turning the handlebars. The bars should move smoothly and you should feel just a little resistance. The bars should not flop easily from side to side. If you have access to a spring strain gauge you can measure the force needed to turn the bars. Attach it to one end of the bars and see how much force it takes to start the bars moving. It should take somewhere around 400 to 500 grams.

If the bars don't move smoothly from side to side you may need to replace the bearings. If they move to easily then tighten the stem nut until they feel right. Don't get them too tight or it will affect your ability to initiate a turn.


Post by Maccecht on Forum  This one was another topic - guy having wobble.
As already noted. Get the bike on the centre stand and with the front wheel off the deck grab the forks and try pulling them back and forward to check for movement. Movement means loose or damaged head races. Sitting on the bike apply the front brake and off the stand rock the bike back and forward again check for clonking or movement.
Again bike on centre stand grab the front wheel top and bottom and rock it to see if there is any movement. Movement means worn wheel bearings. We assume your front axle is done up tight of course.
Lastly look down over the front of your tyre and check it is not misshapen also run your hand over the profile and see if it has an odd profile. Normally caused by late braking into corners. It can make the bike do odd things when crossing road markings.



 
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Offline Luvmystar

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I will add this car tires are known for this but usually it does it on install not down the road.The 1 on the nomad was horrible at first.
Marc

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Offline IanC

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As has been said, likely the tire or steering head bearings. Can check the fall away for the front end.
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2012 Triumph Daytona 675R

Offline Chris

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Almost certainly the tyres and probably the front.

Having said that the car tyre on the back isn't helping.
CHRIS
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Offline PAULRIDES

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THANKS Folks- Not sure I know how to adequately check front (bearings or free play or fall away).

Here is where I stand now.

So far, I raised front off ground yesterday (Center Stand and MC Jack under frame in front).

I jerked around on forks and handle bars (don't see any free play). Handle bars seem to move smoothly (guy on forum suggested spring gauge to see if movement of bars is within spec - too loose or too tight). Don't have spring gauge -- seem pretty free to me (don't know if too free). Right now I have calipers tied back and lines are still attached to fender area, so hard to determine how free handle bars are. Personally, I think they are OK. 

Maybe if tire does not fix problem -- I will try to get inside the plastic to the nut to tighten (dang plastic - like more naked bikes when it comes to working on 'em, like scooter to plastic for looks and ride).   

Spun front wheel with calipers on -- about normal drag as far as I know and not loose to tight as rotor rotates (don't think they are warped).

Took calipers off and wheel spins freely as fast as I can spin it and seems normal when spun as fast as I could by hand. (no bearing noise to me)

Next step is remove wheel and for my interest and information regarding the leak (10 PSI in a day ride and say three days empty on air) is put it in water (garden Wheel barrow works). I would just like to know where leak is. Replace tire (ordered new one Monday.

A couple folks suggested a broken ply in tire --- hoping and praying that it's the tire (well not praying, doubt if God gives a crap about my wobble HA!). Disturbing thing is -- that tire has a lot of wear left and is the smoothest wearing tire I have had on there (none or very little cupping or scalloping).

Been adding air to tire for sometime before rides (pump up to 36 when 27 is normal and it looses about 10PSI on a ride). I had a question or suggestion about increasing air pressure effect on wobble (basically always kept it at around 27 to 30PSI in past so can't say). Until recently when pumping to 36 and it gets down - not noticed any difference and was minimal (until the ride last Tuesday and then last Saturday). So, Wobble has come on pretty quickly.

That is: Noticed wobble some worse on ride with Jackie past Tuesdaay (326 mile one). Saturday, it really wobbles (front end shakes at lower speeds of 35 +/- even when holding bars and really gets going if you release bars). Not so bad at 50 or 60 mph.

History has been wobble off and on in past years (mainly when coasting to slow or stop and release handle bars, sometimes those were large enough to be alarming - get hands back on handle bars thing). I mean you could also feel slight movement with hands on bars, but not like now.

PRESENT -- I don't feel safe riding it for worry it is the tire and might blow, not that I think it would develop and uncontrolled wobble (cause keeping hands on bars is easy to control - but you can see and feel the front shake). Besides that it is very very irritating at the level it is now.   

 
 


 
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Offline PAULRIDES

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Car Tire -- maybe, doubt it.

Another WOBBLE Topic (BURGMAN USA Forum)  -- guy made a big issue of MC Tire (rear tire)  wearing flat causing wobble. he had a theory as to why. 

CAR TIRE is flat to start with (don't think it contributes as had no issues with the Burgman 650, and 400 has only been slight wobbles in past). Kawa NINJA 500 was also slight (when I say slight -- mostly never noticed, but sometimes turn loose of handle bars at slow speeds and it would get pretty violent - no car tire.

My present car tire is worn down and soon needs replacement, but this wobble being extreme just came on.

Goldwings and Valkyrie guys run a lot of car tires -- no issues heard of. Goldwings however are notorious for wobble at slow speeds coasting (at elast I jhave know of some). One was a trike and a guy wanted to stop it - changed rotor (Randy at Vol Cycle thought maybe that was it as not perfectly flat) - no help.

 
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Offline PAULRIDES

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Update Burgman Wobble Problem.
 
Not much progress at this point, the new Front tire did arrive Thursday.
 
Jacked up front and rotated the wheel with calipers on and off, shock the forks & handle bar, rotated handle bars  (all that looks OK to me - as previously reported) 
 
I took wheel off and placed in water above valve stem and rotated it complete revolution.  Definitely leaking around the rim / tire bead interface (I saw slow little bubbles coming out at a dozen places on each side). No other bubbles. 
 
I would have soon seen air leaking from the tire surface - like it had gone bad inside.
 
That tire is worn so smooth compared to many I have had and has a lot of wear left -- I hate to replace it.
 
I let air out and broke the bead. A guy on Burgman Forum mentioned he had rim / tire interface leak and fixed it using WD40. Think I will try that to see if I can stop the leaking (get experience one way or other).
 
If I can stop leak, put the wheel back on and replace the rear tire. The rear tire is very near worn out anyway (below the wear indicators and I have plans to replace it soon). Some folks have idea the rear tire might also cause the wobble (don't think so as that tire looks OK also and I have ran them slicker than this one).   
 
Anyway, nothing lost as I need a new rear anyway, and can always replace the front tire later (provided I can get leak stopped, I think I will go that route). .
 
Right Now, I am less confident the front tire will fix the wobble.     :groan
 
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Offline Luvmystar

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Check the swingarm for looseness to.
Marc

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Offline PAULRIDES

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Thanks Marc -- not sure how to check swingarm (just shake it I guess).
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline PAULRIDES

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Used WD-40 based on what Al, guy that is lost from FL, had mentioned he used to fix a rim / tire leak on the Burgman Forum when I posted my problem. 
 
By The Way, still no info (TXTs, Calls, E Mails) on he and his wife. That can't be good, just wish I knew they have been taken care of and family notified of Whatever Has Happened.
 
Summary of Wobble Investigation as of now - Air Leak - cleaned tire and rim bead areas, pumped it up and did another water leak check -- no bubbles.
 
Balanced check on wheel was good no changes (static with stand). Put wheel back on and did a test ride. I had hoped to go to Lowe's, made it about 1/4 mile out of the hood (lot of Wobble), went back home to get the CB500X.
 
Still severe wobble about as expected as using the same tire. So, I am wondering if it is the front tire causing the wobble as it looks so good and leak was at tire / rim interface and not carcass of the tire, plus still in balance after 5000 miles. .
 
Gonna change the back tire (it's about worn out anyway - maybe good for another 500 or 1000 miles) and check if see any mechanical problems at rear of the Scooter.
 
Then if that does not fix it -- change the front tire. Then if that does not fix it -- does anyone know where can get some dynamite?
 
End of summary ---
 
Maybe this leak stop procedure of use to some one else having leak at tire / rim interface. Assuming it lasts -- time will tell.

PICTURE Story
As reported previously, leak test in water showed numerous slow to medium fast bubble formations at like a dozen or so places on each side of the tire at tire / rim interface. I marked them with red marker on the rim as I was checking. Typical marks -- this was one of the areas with most leaks close together (6 or 7 count there in a few inches).
 
I let air out and broke the bead.
Took pictures of the bead area of the tire. Typical Picture - looks like a white fungus, maybe from using shampoo and water as lubricant when installing tire on rim. Have been using shampoo water mixture for years - since Curtie did my first tire change years ago (probably 2004 or so), since been doing my own. 
 
This tire has been on 5000 miles +/- , so it took sometime for the leak to be a problem. Guess it was a month or so ago that I found it deflated and been pumping up before each ride. Loose 10 PSI  or less on a day ride. (down to zero in say three days sitting).
 
Pictures of "Fungus" -- next two pictures show both sides of tire

Other side of wheel (flipped wheel over). .
 
Cleaned by spraying as lightly as I could a short length of tire bead with WD-40 or second time around sprayed WD-40 on the tooth brush. Used an old tooth brush (I'm not using it on teeth again HA!) between rim and tire to brush tire bead area. Then turned tooth brush bristles up to do the rim bead area. Then used rag with handle of tooth brush as pusher to wipe things off.

Looks better, like new.  Can't really see up under the rim (did look with a mirror and decided OK?).
 
The Tire has like 5000 +/- and to me has worn smoother than tires I have had on the front (it has some, but very little cupping or uneven wear at this point). Above pictures show some tread and the pictures below were an attempt (not too good attempt) to show the tire from front. 
Probably develop somewhat severe cupping, etc., by time get 18,000 to 20,000 on it. I am thinking I usually get that many miles, but they are in much need of replacement by then. I tend to push the limit on miles per tire. Never had a severe wobble like I have now.
 

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Offline PAULRIDES

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No conclusions reached as of now on Wobble because made decision to replace rear tire and see if that helps. 

Activity so far has been to replace the rear tire (sad cause it probably had a 1000 or more miles left and I betcha a new rear tire does not solve the problem). Plus, it is always an issue to change the car tire (very tight fit and hard to get bead to set).

I did get the tire off rim and new tire on rim (very hard to do). Still having issues seating the bead. Finally got a neighbors compressor to get it to start taking air (mine would not), then his would only go to 62PSI.

So, I let it sit in the sun all afternoon and was going to take someplace for more PSI. Then thought, my little compressor (120vac with no tank) would probably take PSI up to 100 PSI. IT did -- went to like 80, then 90, then finally 100 PSI (scared to go much more). Bead still hung up.

Let air out and lubricated bead area some more (been using Silicon Spray and/ or WD-40 vs Shampoo and Water Mixture). Fortunately, this time I was able to get pressure started with my little portable compressor. I went back to 100PSI -- it looks closer to being seated, but still is not. 

Anyway, did not see any other problems during this operation except maybe my rear wheel Rotor (will be $143 something), it is worn down a good deal. Don't think it is warped -- have not taken it off to put on a flat surface. One other thing, I suspected that rear wheel did not get a good balance when last tire was installed. Guy used a Spin Balancer and seemed to be having some issues (added a lot of weight).  I put the wheel and old tire on my static balance sttand and it was way out (heavy where he had added weight).

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Offline PAULRIDES

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Things not getting any better, except going to a MC (Scooter) tire vs Car Tire. Hate to be a "quit'er", but giving up on a Car Tire this go round - that after having used the same brand and model Car Tire three times before. 

Guess made dumb decision after removing wheel to do the tire change myself VS taking it to Bob. Last time Bob did it in about 30 minutes (I took wheel and new tire to him) and including balance was $20. (THAT IS THE EASY WAY. Bob does good work and has the equipment (tire removal machine and spin balance machine). To tell the truth - not sure Bob could have seated this one (see my story and pictures below).

That said, I am not sure the balance was good the last go round as thought I felt some vibration after I put the wheel back on. Then when I took it off this time and put it on my static balance stand it was way heavy where he added 8 weights (4 on each side). 
 
Anyway, the balance issue had nothing to do with my decision to do it myself this time.  I just took a notion to do it.

My Story - Could not get tire seated on the rim (most of that effort reported in my last  post reply). 

Basically went o 100 psi a couple times - first time it held air to 100 psi, then it would not hold air to that pressure (had leaks badly at four places - due to damage on the bead of the tire which apparently hung up on what I call a slight ridge on the Rim that the bead has to slip over before seating). I don't know, perhaps this tire has a slightly smaller inner diameter at the bead (all car tires seem a tight fit when installing -- you know they are not made for MCs).  :bangheadspdc).

It is hard to measure inside diameter of the tire, might be 1/8 less than 13 (original MC Tire was 150-70-13 and the car tires I have been using are 155-70R-13. Most anyone that has installed a car tire can tell you that a car tire is harder to install and harder to seat. I have had three car tires on this scooter -- this would have made 4.
 
I personally liked the wear (more miles by factor of 3 1/2) cheaper to start with, handle just fine for me (never have I felt a slip on a curve -- can't say that about the MC tires) and maybe even better on stopping and in the rain. Anyway, after this I give up for now and ordered a MC tire today - SHINKO 150-70-13 for $48 (on sale at Chaparral). FREE shipping over a $100. So, I ordered a Rear Disc (rotor) for $129.35 (discounted from $143).
 

PICTURE Story Kind of in two parts 1) Damage to tire and 2) Attempted fix by whittle down edge of bead.
 
1) Damage to tire.
I removed tire from wheel to check it. Found damage to bead in two spots on each side of the tire (like a tear in the rubber about 3 inches long and 1/8 inch from inner side of the tire bead). The tears were where it was hung up (would not seat), I guess the pressure pushing on it tore the tire bead rubber.

Two tears spaced about a foot apart.
Close up of one tear. There were 4 tears -- two on each side of the tire.

2) Attempt to repair.
Before making the decision to order a tire -- I tried one more crazy scheme to whittle the squared edge of the tire bead to a slope.   ::)
 
Neighbor and I had been messing with trying to seat this and I pointed out to him the Burgman Rim has a slightly raised area at the edge the tire has to slip over to get all the way on. He suggested might try taking some rubber off the edge of the tire bead (MAYBE would give it some slope to let it slip over that edge)).
 
After getting tire off wheel and seeing damage on edge -- I thought might as well try that.  So, whittled the edge of the bead (on tire) down a bit. Might have worked except to remove the area of the damaged edge things got a bit large on the edge. Also, hard to whittle down nice and smooth. (See Pictures). 
 
I had hope -- hope did not work.  :( Could not get it to take air over about 16 PSI (leaking mostly around the four 3 inch damaged areas (same area that would not seat before. I GAVE UP - Hate Admit Defeat -- thought of ordering another car tire (as said -- have had success three other time sin mounting one).   
 
My whittle ended up a bit rough edge as you can see, but tire bead originally made contact with the smooth part (hoped it might hold air to slide on up over the rime raised edge).

This is the area where the original about 3 inch damage was and you can see a bit less of original side bead left -- so mostly the air was leaking out of here (and the other three) to prevent a build up of pressure with my compressor or my neighbors compressor. We tried both compressors and also tried a strap (tie down strap we ratcheted up from slight to real tight) around the tire. 
     
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Offline gl1dinorider

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That a tequila wobble.

Ease up a little. . . .  :happypep
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Offline PAULRIDES

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 :lol

Maybe have more tequila and will not know it is wobbling.  :banghead
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Offline PAULRIDES

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THINK I stumbled on the  cause of WOBBLE, here is the story and pictures (old rear tire).

The new MC tire came in today (about 24 hours since ordered). I mounted it and balanced by removing all ten 1/4 oz weights that were on the rim (have to question that spin balance). Removing the weights  nearly balance it, I added one 1/4 inch back on (taped it on temporarily because I plan to replace the disc).
 
However, I am tempted to install the wheel before I change the disc (rotor) and ride the scooter to see if the new rear tire fixes the wobble (see below what I found on the old tire). Doing that involves considerable effort, not too bad and I have time until the new disc come. I would like to know if the tire fixed things are if the disc played a part (can't know if I replace both at same time).   
 
WOBBLE cause??? Asking what you think, would it cause wobble? 
 
The good thing is when I picked up the old car tire to do the measurement I spotted about a 12 inch section on right side of the old car tire (right side when looking at direction of rotation) surface that is raised up (deformed might be best word to describe it).

PICTURE Story
 
Pictures I think show that deformation. I tried to line up tire along a line (concrete groove) so it helps show.
 
Tire rotation would be toward you when looking at the picture. That's my foot on left side of rotation.
 
This is area of the old tire that is still flat across (most of it was). 

Last twos how the deformed area -- I think was about 10 or 12 inches of the circumference
« Last Edit: July 28, 2017, 08:20:57 pm by PAULRIDES »
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Offline PAULRIDES

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ANOTHER BIT OF INFORMATION related to installing the last Car Tire (should say trying to install it)

Bead diameter
 
ANYWAY, when I got the new MC tire, I thought to make measurements of the inner diameter of tread bead for the MC tire, old Car Tire, and new Car Tire (the one I could not install).
It's hard to get an accurate measurement, but I think accurate enough to explain why the Car Tire is hard to bead up and why this last one got damaged. 
 
MC Tire I concluded is 13 1/16 +/- a little.
Old Car Tire is closer to 13.
New Car Tire (that I could not get to bead up and damaged the bead) is closer to 12 15/16 (at least I think a bit under 13 inches). Probably why the bead on the tire hung up on the ridge of the rim and finally was cut by the high pressure.

 
 
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Offline Luvmystar

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Thats one of the arguments against car tires on bikes and why technique,experience,and patience are required to mount them.15 in seems to have the most difference and can be very difficult.Also there is a difference in the distance from the outer bead and the raised area of the rim.The bike rim is narrower in that area and the argument is the bead cord will not be properly in the area resulting in the possibility of the bead breaking and sudden air loss.I personally understand the theory but with plenty of air in the tire it just ain't happening.But there are several differences in the tire and rim designs.
Marc

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Offline PAULRIDES

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  • I might be old, but can mount without help. HA!
FIXED based on very short test ride (so, see what future ride shows).

Finally contacted Chaparral about shipment of the rear Disc (rotor) after two week wait on part. They said would ship when thy got it from MFG (it was an OEM part) and not sure when that would be, could be a day or couple weeks. UNSATISFACTORY. So, the Rep suggested an after market. I had looked on their web site and found nothing for the Burgman 400 Scooter.

He found an EBC in stock -- so changed order and got it a couple days later. Installed it on the wheel with new brake pads as well. The wheel all ready had new MC tire. Only had time for a short test ride (McCleary) but was adequate to show NO WOBBLE and got up to 70MPH (actually when the WOBBLE was extreme was at lower speed up to 50MPH, but was evident at all speeds).

So, I am convinced it was the distorted tread area of the old car Tire (it was worn and in need of replacement anyway). The Extreme WOBBLE came on suddenly pretty much a day or so after a 325 mile ride to NC.

Appreciate all the help, comments regarding the problem. The Scoot might in fact need some head bearing tweaking as it has always had some tendency to wobble (slight and seem to very with different front tires). That wobble was never a concern until this EXTREME WOBBLE showed up (definitely not safe to ride and finding the cause, I was lucky rear tire did not blow).
 
Show the tire pictures again -- you can see the good part of the tire (pictrue 1) and the bad portion (picture 2).
« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 07:50:02 am by PAULRIDES »
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)

Offline IanC

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Glad you got it sorted Paul!
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC - Completely custom.
2012 Triumph Daytona 675R