Author Topic: NoRearBrakes(CB500X) after Tire Replacement - Caliper Install Mess (fixed)  (Read 333 times)


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  • I might be old, but can mount without help. HA!
THANKS to Everyone that replied with sympathy or ideas (had responses from my Riders E Mail List and CB500X FORUM. Apparently problems after trying to get the Bolt / Pin installed were due to me not getting the Bolt / Pin in straight.  :banghead
Short Story Answer --- Three days later, I THINK all do to a misalignment of caliper which was at a slight angle apparently caused by my initial attempt to get the BOLT / PIN back into the Caliper after installing the wheel with the new tire.
Long Story Answer --- I could not get the Bolt / Pin threads started into the caliper (it threads into the caliper and the other end of that Bolt is a Pin that inserts into a hole in the bracket so the caliper can rotate about the pin for easy Pad replacement). Also, one CAN REMOVE the CALIPER by swinging it up and pulling it out of the hole. DANG IT, I did not need to remove that Bolt / PIN to get the caliper off to take the wheel out - could have just pulled the caliper and the Bolt / PIN out of that hole.  LIVE and LEARN from the Forum but after the fact.   :banghead
OK - So What Happened? When I could not get the Bolt / Pin threaded, I took the muffler off and had direct access to it. Then got it started (threaded), but I think a bit off being straight. Not much off cause it went in pretty easy, but harder than it came out. The RESULT was the caliper was at a slight angle from the bracket when the pin on the Bolt/Pin was inserted in the bracket. SO THAT HAS BEEN MAIN PROBLEM that resulted in several days of trying to figure out what was wrong with old worn out pads while waiting for new pads to come in.
I thought something was misaligned as the Inside Pad (closes to the center of the bike) was pretty tight and it was very thin (like less than 1/16 left) vs a new one which is like 3/16 +/-. I am thinking how will I ever get a new pad in there. More on that later.
Still, I spent a lot of hours trying to get things to work with the old pads, by installing in various configurations (with and without springs, filing edge of pads to make sure they were free to move) and verifying the Piston was free (able to come out to the pads). Couple times things seemed OK when on center stand only to be proven NOT  OK on a test ride (no rear brake power). 
Finally, the new pads came in (actually only took two days) and I went to Mtn Mtr Sport at noon to get them.
As I suspected there was not room for the thickness of a new pad on the inside (one closest to the center of the bike) as it would not go between the caliper and the rotor. I'm thinking is the wheel on correctly, maybe a spacer is turned over 180 degrees or something - I decided the wheel has to be right (centered) cause if not the rotor would be hitting the cut out in the Bracket. There is only 50/1000 or so clearance on each side of the rotor with the cut out in the bracket. See Last Picture in this E Mail.
I had some thoughts thru all this that things might be misaligned due to the problem I had with the Bolt, PIN installation. SO, I backed the Bolt, Pin out by about 3/8 inch and that allowed the Caliper to shift a bit, so the pads fit even with all the springs installed. The brakes seemed to work good on center stand, pedal got firm, etc., and wheel was not rubbing anything (just a little normal contact between pads and rotor).   
TIME for a Test Ride -- Round and Round the hood I went, down hill - up hill - around corners - braking a lot and no front brake needed. I GOT A REAR BRAKE and all seems to be working fine.
PS: I think it will be OK with the Bolt, Pin backed out (might put some locktite on it to insure it stays where it is. I did mark it with a red magic marker to monitor if it is coming out.
Other than that, I am tempted to buy the caliper on E Bay that has new looking pads with it for like $40 (shoot I paid like $35 plus tax for the new pads alone).
PICTURE Story Here are some pictures I took while investigating things this AM (before I got the new pads).
This is a picture of the top spring that pushes down on the pads (I think main purpose is to keep pads from rattling). When I took the caliper pout this AM (from last evening's failed test ride), I found it sitting at an angle and one corner sort of wedged or caught with the piston. The piston was way out cause the old pads are badly worn (1/16 or less). So, I had pushed piston back in and got the spring out, straightened it up, and reset in it's groove as shown.
I also tested the Piston movement (suggested by TerrE, I was having thoughts about that as I was not getting braking and sometimes it did not want to go out to the pads (my think old pads).  So, this shows the two old pads installed and used another old worn out pad from a different bike as a spacer (it is like 5.3 MM and the rotor is like 5 MM ( by the way limit on rotor is 4 MM). The Piston worked, pressed hard on the pads, and the brake pedal was firm. I called it free to move and was clean.  Add thickness of two new pads and the piston is back in there at least 6/16 or more. 
Just to show how things mount up. The Bracket is in place so the Axle goes thru it (Caliper as to move as the wheel moves to adjust the chain, etc.), there is a stud sticking out of the swing arm and a long trench like cut on the bracket for the stud to go in (so the bracket does not rotate about the axle and is free to slide when you adjust the chain).

I labeled the two points that serve in mounting the Caliper to the Bracket.
The Pin part of the Bolt / Pin goes into the hole (just inserts in) and the other end of the bolt has threads that thread into the caliper - (this is the one I messed up). 
The Bolt / Flange threads into the bracket and first goes thru the caliper with a shock or rubber tube that allows for some movement of the caliper.   

Caliper installed looks like this. NOTE: Bolt / Pin and BOLT / Flange discussed above. Then there is a pin (threaded on this end) that is a pin going thru the holes in the pads (holds the pads in place and they are free to move back and forth on that pin). One thing I was taking a picture of is the PAD NOTCH resting on the Bracket Shelf. You have to make sure the pad is in that position to be bale to get the Bolt, Flange installed. NOTE: I left the spring that gores in there out (was experimenting with allowing more space for the pads to be free to move).   

I took a picture thru the wheel spokes of the inside pad (it's blue here - Notch on Shelf). I had to use a screw driver to get it up on the shelf. Remember, this is with the caliper misaligned on a tightened Bolt, Pin and the old pads (did not have new ones yet).
One other thing to note is how tight the spacing is between the rotor and bracket. Rotor is on the wheel you know and goes round and round and the Bracket is on the frame and stationary. It was hard to get a picture showing gap on both sides, but hopefully you can get the idea.  I made a rough guess with feeler gauges and it's like 50 / 1000th. I wonder why they cut that so close? It could really mess things up if the rotor hit the bracket for any reason. All, I am saying the wheel spacers have to be in right - for sure if you left one out, that rotor spacing would be a problem.
Ride Country Roads - a lot. :-)